American Hickory Ad 1937
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I have not been able to find any information on the history of Hickory, but I had always assumed that it was an Australian company, as here the name is closely associated with the Dowd family. However I had to rethink this, when I was sent a series of Hickory advertisements from the States, covering the period 1937 to 1950.
I have a number of copies of The Home, an upmarket magazine published in Sydney, from before the war. These have many corsetry advertisements, but none from Hickory. If Hickory had been active here then, I am sure it would have been advertising in them.
So I can only assume that it was an American name, and that Dowd Associatess started manufacturing it here under license, probably after the war. I don't remember ever reading anything to indicate that the local Hickory garments were manufactured under license.
I had never seen an American advertisement for Hickory, but this was not surprising as they stopped advertising there in 1949, which was about the time I became interested in girdles. But, interestingly, although the name disappeared in the States, Hickory remained active in Australia until well into the Nineties.
This ad was published in 1937, but I have an advertisement for the same garment from 1936. The ad states:
Youth is yours in “Seamless Sis” Lastex Foundations styled by Hickory "with that artful uplift".
This Foundation is made from firmly controlling knitted Lastex. Despite the "Artful uplift" the bra cups appear to be relatively soft.
 
Hickory advertisement. 1942 |
These advertisements offer three styles: Foundation (shown above), Girdle (on right) and Pantie. One ad amplifies this.
Foundation (for formal), Girdle (for about town), Pantie (for sportswear). Panties came in short -- for active figures that crave action in sportswear, and long -- for formal wear, with detachable garters.
By 1942 the United States were involved in the war, and the advertisements start to assume a military flavour. The text for the advertisement on the rights reads:
WANTED Unruly Curves for a camouflage campaign by Hickory. Hips too hearty ... midriff a mite too pronounced? Indulge yourself in a bit of Girdle camouflage by Hickory. Here's control with a conscience … no pushing or pinching your tender frame. Activity Women and leisure lovers are the better for girdles by Hickory. If you care about tomorrow, get your Hickory girdle today. And also ask to see PERMA-LIFT brassieres with "The lift that never lets you down" … that can't wash or wear away.
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It is amusing to notice that 'Activity Women' rate capital letters, but 'leisure lovers' do not. Notice, too, that the bra cups have assumed a harder, sharper, more bullet like outline.
The style names used by Hickory before the war included Seamless Sis, Scoop (For zestful living!), Rio-Rita, Duo Rita (runproof … exclusive construction), (Sweet is the word for you in) "Luralace ", Visionet Lastex Foundations, Luranet (glamorous curves ahead), Duranet (a slender contour joins you to beauty), Hickory (the Foundation of Loveliness), and Hickory Juniors (Gems for Juniors -- Best Bet for Beauty).
In 1941 we see for the first time:
You will also enjoy a Perma-Lift brassiere. Americas only bra with "the lift that never lets you down." Trust Perma-Lift and Hickory -- dependable trademarks that have stood the test of time.
The last line implies that Perma-Lift had been around for some time, but, to the best of my knowledge, this is the first time it appears in a Hickory ad.
American Hickory Ad 1942 |
The ad on the left, which also appeared in 1942, continues the military theme. The accompanying text read:
Hickory’s smoothing, soothing control is a must for the Victory vigor you’re needing these days. Wear the Hickory Pantie that politely but firmly suggests correct posture, that assures you more comfort, more support, that helps keep your muscles morning fresh all day. At leading corsetieres $4, $5 and $6. And ask to see Hickory Perma-Lift Brassieres with the famous patented “Lift that never lets you down,” $1.25 to $2.50. * * * Don’t let anyone deprive you of your American right to choose the dependable brands that you prefer. Trust the Trade Marks which have stood the test of time.
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Notice that Perma-Lift has now become Perma-lift.
American Hickory Ad 1943
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By 1943 wartime shortages were starting to bite, even in The States. The caption on the photo on the right read:
When there was so much talk of whalebone and laces coming back, weren't you ready to shy away from the new foundations, too? * * * But you know I mighty soon found out that HICKORY garments were just as wearable and comfortable as they always were. Sure, they’re made with less elastic but
they must put in more of something else that works even better to control those bothersome bumps and bulges.
The name of Perma-lift, which appeared first in 1941, gradually assumes more importance. A 1942 advertisement features a "Perma-lift Bra Top foundation by Hickory".
In 1943 we see "Hickory Perma-lift brassieres", then "Perma-lift brassieres, styled by Hickory".
Perma-Lift Ad 1945 |
By 1945 the war has disappeared from the advertisements, and this joyous ad claims that the Perma-lift bra (which is sharper and shinier than ever) sparkles like a diamond. Other advertisements feature rubies and emeralds.
This ad states in the fine print: for Fashion Fit and Corset Comfort -- you'll also like Hickory Juniors -- Girdles and Panties -- "The Foundation of Loveliness"
don'tPerma-lift continues to grow in importance. Another advertisement for Permalift brassieres has "Another Hickory success" in smaller type underneath the name. Then towards the end of 1945 we get, for the first time, "Perma-lift Panties", with no mention of Hickory.
After 1945 advertisements feature 'Permalift Foundations', with 'Another "Hickory" Success' in small type underneath.
Perma-lift ad 1950 |
Finally, in 1950, Stein & Co appear to have decided that Hickory has come to the end of its useful life. The advertisement on the right has no mention of Hickory at all, in even the finest print.
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