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Corsetry 101: DefinitionsPanty Girdles |
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Colors used for Names: General UK US Alternative |
Panties of any sort are a relatively recent invention, having only been introduced in mid-19th century, and pantygirdles did not become practical until the development of two-way stretch fabrics, in about 1930. The first Pantygirdles appeared about 1930. They were made from the new Satin Lastex. They became popular in the United States, and by the fifties they had practically displaced OBGs among younger women there. By the seventies Girdle was normally assumed to mean Pantygirdle in the States. However in Britain, and probably Australia, they took much longer to become popular, and never really dominated the market. |
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Pantygirdles come in the same range of waist and construction styles as OBGs, and also come in a range of leg lengths. The heavier models sometimes come with a zip opening to make them easier to put on. The crotch is often permanently sealed, but sometimes it is split, for quicker access, and occasionally it is omitted altogether. The split crotch was most commonly used with heavier high waisted models that were more difficult to take down in the toilet. The main categories are:
Control Briefs: no leg. Boyleg Briefs: leg 1-2 in. long. Average leg: leg about 4 in. long. Long leg: leg 6 or more in. long. Pantsliners: end of leg below the knee. Until fairly recently pantygirdles always had suspenders. On briefs and boyleg panties these we usually attached to the hem of the garment, but in some early long leg models they were on the outside of the legs. However it soon became standard to attach them inside the legs. I don't know about the earliest garments, but in all the sample I have seen the suspenders have been detachable. |
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BSPG (Brief style PG)
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Control briefs have no leg at all. They come in all weights, from very light to very firm, and can be either normal or high waisted.
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Boyleg briefs typically have legs one to 2 in. long. The garment on the left is a Hickory 4-Spot pantygirdle. It is a particularly firm model, with a rigid front panel. Notice that in the illustration it is worn over pantyhose, and that the suspenders, which are detachable, are clipped onto the pantyhose. The garment on the right is a classic Gossard brief, and appears to have permanently attached suspenders. It also appears to be relatively firm. |
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Medium Leg PG
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This is an ill-defined category, but would usually have a leg 3-4 in. long. The modern example on the left has a cuff-top, and (probably) a rigid front panel. The vintage garment on the right is made from extremely lightweight almost transparent elastic net. In the fifties it was quite common for corsetry salons to have one garment like this in the window, on a translucent plastic model, illuminated by an internal light globe, to show how lightweight it was. |
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On the far left, a medium weight LLPG with normal waist, reinforced front panel, and lace trimmed cuffs. These probably incorporate wavy rubber Gripper strips on the inside to help them stay down. The leg length is typically 6 to 8 in., and some LLPGs extended almost to the knees.
The garment on the right is a particularly firm looking model, with cuff top, firm cuffs on the legs, and reinforcing bands across the stomach and hips. The garment on the left is a relatively light weight model with even longer legs, simple cuffs, and a satin front panel (possibly made from down-stretch satin fabric). |
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Pantsliners extend at least to the knees, and may stop anywhere on the calf. They are often relatively lightweight, as on the right, but the one on the left has reinforcing panels on the tummy, and probably seat, to make it firmer. They are usually worn to ensure that the cuffs at the ends of the legs do not produce visible lumps under slacks. The garment to the right could almost be classified as a pair of footless tights. They are also available in cuff-top styles. |
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Whereas the classical girdle was designed to flatten the buttocks, and remove any hint of cleavage, a range of control briefs have been developed which are designed to firm the buttocks, but enhance the natural shape. This is achieved by reinforcing the back seam with elastic, so that it divides the two buttocks, and by moulding cups into the material to round them. These examples both give a particularly attractive result. |
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If the above measures are not deemed sufficient additional padding can be built into the panty to further enhance the buttocks. The example shown on the left incorporates all these features, and is particularly low-cut. The garment on the right is less extreme, but (at least in this photo) gives a more unnatural shape, with a less attractive appearance. |
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This type of garment carries the butt-shaping principle to the extreme. This one certainly does that very successfully, but is closer to fetish wear rather than to conventional corsetry. |
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For more information about Cosabella. |
In about 1995, one of the pantyhose manufacturers devised an extremely sophisticated control brief, with reinforcing and lifting bands knitted into the brief. Presumably the original inventor licensed this designed to all the main pantyhose manufacturers, as they all came out with their own version shortly afterwards, with suitably lurid names. Apparently this design was fairly successful, as the same design soon appeared as a brief. The garment on the left, a Cosabella 'Suction Panty', is an excellent illustration of this type of garment. The garment on the right, also by Cosabella, is a very high waisted version. It does not appear to have any bones, and I would be very surprised if the top did not roll over or slide down. |
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In the first half of last century there was a widespread belief among older women that you would get backache if you didn't wear a maternity girdle during pregnancy. The example on the left is typical of the maternity girdles of the middle of the century. It has a relatively firm panty, but has a panel of soft relatively high stretch elastic mesh in the tummy, to allow for expansion as the pregnancy progresses. The description reads: Light control maternity pantygirdle. Comfortable, wide inner band offers support under and around the abdomen, and also provides important back support. Two way, stretch lace front and an action back helps prevent pulldown. Elasticised lace trims leg openings. Cotton lined panty panel. Maternity girdles were even firmer in the previous generation. Ivyleaf * has an illustration of a rigid Camp maternity girdle, which has lacing on both sides of the tummy panel so that it can be let out progressively as the pregnancy advanced. [* The section on maternity girdles is about halfway down the page.] |
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Historically corsets had generally been approximately skin coloured, with colours like Tea Rose, Beige, or Skintone. White was also available, and even occasionally black, for the daring. When the first girdles were introduced, they followed this pattern, and the situation did not change much until the sixties, when the advent of synthetic fabrics and improved dyes enabled the manufacturers to use a much wider range of colours. They introduced matching ranges of lingerie in pastel tones, bright colours, and even patterns. Fellow girdle enthusiast, Virginian, wrote a famous essay recounting how a girl wearing a pale blue girdle, in an advertisement in the magazine Seventeen, had bewitched him, and led to his lifelong fascination with girdles. Her charm was in no small part due to her delightfully coloured matching bra and girdle. See The girl in the Pale Blue Girdle On one occasion someone even introduced a girdle decorated with the Stars and Stripes, but this caused such an uproar that it was soon withdrawn.
See The Star Spangled Girdle.
However the movement towards greater personal freedom, which made these designs acceptable, soon led on to the miniskirt and pantyhose, and the death of classical corsetry. | ||||||||||
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The Art of Corsetry Ed: Bunyip Bluegum |
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