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ReferencesBooks in my library |
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Magazines
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Books on Fashion & Corsetry Quentin Bell: On Human Finery The Hogarth press Ltd London 1947. An interesting discussion of the motives behind the urge to dress fashionably. Illustrated with cartoons and fashion plates. Karen Bressler, Karoline Newman & Gillian Proctor: A Century of Lingerie Universal International Pty Ltd Gordon NSW Australia 1998 ISBN 1-876142-77-4 Iris Brook: Dress and Undress Methuen London 1958. "Undress" here means casual dress, as opposed to formal dress. The book is a collection of costume drawings in chronological order, showing the fashions of the day. Michael Colmer: Whalebone to See Through Cassel Australia 1979. 0 7269 1394 4. This is primarily a picture book, but it has a lot of nice illustrations, mostly from ads. Unfortunately the pages are not numbered. C. Willet & Phyllis Cunnington: A Picture History of English Costume Vista Books London 1960. Elizabeth Ewing: Fashion in Underwear Batsford. London 1971. ISBN 0 7134 0857 A well written, scholarly account of the history of corsetry, with a number of line drawings. Elizabeth Ewing: Dress and Undress Batsford. London 1978 ISBN 0 7134 1629 7. This is a revised version of "Fashion in Underwear", with more illustrations, including black-and-white photos, and with some sections expanded and updated. Beatrice Fontanel: Support and Seduction: A History of Corsets and Bras Harry N. Abrams, New York 1997 0-8109-4086-8. A reasonable historic account, with some attractive photos. Madge Garland: Fashion: a picture guide to its creators and creations Penguin books Harmondsworth 1962. A guide to the fashion industry for the first half of the 20th century. Many illustrations.
Prudence Glynn: Skin to skin, eroticism in dress George Allen and Unwin London 1982 ISBN 0-04-391006-8. An interesting discussion on the way our clothing is designed to attract the opposite sex. It has many interesting (and often entertaining) illustrations of dress throughout the ages Rosemary Hawthorne: Bras: A Private View Souvenir Press. 1992 0 285 63086 5. Reminiscences of a collector. (Found in an 'Old Times' shop in UK.) There is a companion book Knickers: An Intimate Appraisal Karoline Newman, Karen Bressler, Gillian Proctor: A century of lingerie Quartet publishing London 1998. 1-876142-77-4. This book has articles on many of the better-known designers, manufacturers and suppliers. Most of the illustrations are relatively modern. Claire Paillochet: Unmentionables: The Allure of Lingerie A Delilah book, Putnam, New York 1983. 0-933328-79-6. This verges on soft porn, with many illustrations from films, fashion photos, etc. The same material has appeared under several different titles. Julian Robinson: The Fine Art of Fashion: an Illustrated History Murdoch Books 1997 ISBN 0 86411 541 5. An interesting collection of Fashion illustrations, mostly from the 19th and 20th centuries. Julian Robinson: Body Packaging: a Guide to Human Sexual Display Macmillan Australia South Melbourne 1988. 0 333 50157 8. An interesting discussion of the more general subject of body packaging, which includes corsetry.
Margaret Rothwell Lane: Half A Century Of Fashion Dennis Yates London circa 1950. Drawings and photos tracing the evolution of fashion for the first half of the 20th century. James Laver: Fashions And Fashion Plates 1800-1900 King Penguin Books Harmondsworth 1943. 16 fashion plates from the 19th century, with descriptions. James Laver: Womens Dress In The Jazz Age Hamish Hamilton London 1964. Drawings, photos and cartoons illustrating women's dress in the 1920s. Christina Probert: Lingerie in Vogue Thames & Hudson 1981. Many illustrations, in the gimmicky Vogue style, covering the 20th century. Cecil Saint-Laurent: A History of Womens Underwear Academy Editions. London 1986. 0 856 70 9018. Primarily an enthusiasts book. Expensive, many nice illustrations, good bibliography (esp European refs). Joëlle Chariau: Gruau te Neues Publishing Co. NY 1999. 3-8238-0998-9. A magnificent book of the sumptuous fashion illustrations prepared by Gruau for last century's leading couturiers. A few rather subtle lingerie illustrations.
Valerie Steele: Fetish Fashion, Sex and Power. Oxford University press Oxford 1996 0-19-509044-6. Many illustrations of corsets, and a discussion of their place in the fetish scene. Valerie Steele: The Corset A Cultural History Yale University press 2001 ISBN 0-300-09071-4. A detailed
discussion of the history and background of corsets, with many illustrations. Gilles Néret: 1000 Dessous; a History of Lingerie: Taschen GMBH, Koln 2003. ISBN 3-8228-2339-2. Basically soft porn. The introduction is pseudo serious fluff, and the rest is a collection of pictures. They seem to have raided just about every book I have seen on the subject, and although there is an incredible range of pictures, nearly all of them were familiar. To my mind many of the pictures in the final chapter are porn, and I found some of them rather offensive. Other Books having some relevant material. The Woman's Book: Contains everything a woman ought to know T.C. & E. C. Jack, London 1911. This fascinating book, a family heirloom, contains in its 734 pages a mass of invaluable information about every aspect of life for the Edwardian lady. The subjects covered include: Household management, cookery, children, home doctor, business, dress, society, careers and citizenship. It has two sample trousseaus. The economy version, at £65, includes two corsets at 12/9, six pairs cashmere stockings and six fine lisle thread stockings, at 2/-per pair. The luxury version at £130 includes one corset at 21/-, two corsets at 12/9, six pairs cashmere stockings at 2/6, six pairs fine lisle thread at 3/3 and three pairs silk stockings at 10/6.
Chambers Encyclopaedia: a Dictionary of Universal Knowledge for the People W. R. Chambers London 1881. This handsome set of ten large leather bound volumes has no direct relevance to the subject at all -- indeed it is as interesting for what it omits as for what it includes, and, so far as I can discover, there is no direct reference whatsoever to corsets or other underwear, although there is an interesting article on the history and manufacture of stockings. But it is strong on manufacturing techniques and articles of trade, and there is a long article on the silk industry. At that time Britain imported 5,000,000 lbs. of raw silk annually, and it took the silk from 1,600 cocoons, mostly labouriously wound off the cocoons by hand, to make 1 lb. of silk. Christopher Cooper: Patently Absurd Penguin London 2004. ISBN 0 670 04299 4. An entertaining selection of reprints of patently ridiculous patents granted by the US patent office.
Beatrice Faust: Women Sex and Power Penguin Books Hammondsworth UK. ISBN 0 14 0700.99 99. This is an interesting discussion of what pornography means to women, and what they like. Most writing on corsetry accepts that girdles are uncomfortable, but Faust's book is interesting here because, in the chapter The Gentle Touch, she writes "Those women who were young in the ‘fifties and ‘sixties may remember modest but sustained arousal from comfortably tight girdles and well fitted high heels. They are at least as pleasing as Geisha balls clenched in the vagina. I had no trouble deciding not to ask for maintenance when I divorced my first husband: financial autonomy was a matter of principle that did not conflict with self-interest. Yet I took years to decide that freedom of movement was more important to me than the erotic tensions of high heels and girdles. …" (P49). Sears, Roebuck Catalogue 1908 (Reproduction) DBI Books Inc, Northfield Ill 1971 ISBN 0-695-80073-6. Has two pages of corset ads, original probably had more (pp991-5 omitted). Mark Gabor: The Pinup Bell Publishing Company New York 1972. Little material of direct relevance, but a few nice illustrations. Elisabeth Kehoe: Fortunes Daughters Atlantic Books London 2004 ISBN 1 84354 159 9. A fascinating account of the romantic adventures of the Jerome sisters. Set in the late 19th Century, and relevant only for it's photos of the Jerome sisters, who were always fashionably dressed, and always well corsetted.
Kathy Skelton: Miss Gymkhana, R. G. Menzies, and me McPhee Gribble, Ringwood Vic ISBN 0 86914 195 3. Ms Skelton was born in 1946, and grew up in the then small Victorian seaside town of Sorrento. This book recounts her childhood. It gives an interesting picture of life in a small town in the Fifties, and has an attractive cover showing a young girl gazing at a window display in a corsetry shop. It mentions Hickory Girdles several times, and recounts her attempts to understand the function of bras. The Home This magazine was published by Sydney Ure Smith in Sydney from about 1920 to at least 1940. It was designed to appeal to the social set, and came out monthly. There was also an annual edition, which concentrated more on art works. I have a number of issues which appeared between 1932 and 1940. Sydney Bridge Celebrations Art in Australia Ltd, 1932. This souvenir publication has several corsetry advertisements. Woman's Journal The Amalgamated Press Ltd, London. I have the April 1950 and January 1957 issues of this magazine. The Museum of Costume, Bath. This collection focuses on fashionable dress for men, women and children from the late 16th century to the present day, but does include some corsets. Assembly Rooms, Bennett Street, BATH, BA1 2QH Telephone: + 44 (0)1225 477789 Symington Collection of Corsetry, Foundation & Swimwear. A century ago the corsetry industry in England was centred around Leicester. One of the major companies in the area was the Symington Co, which had its headquarters in Market Harborough. Eventually they gave their collection of sample garments to the Leicestershire Council. A new home is currently being built for the collection, but part of it is on display in the Harborough Museum, Council Offices, Adam & Eve Street, Market Harborough LE16 7AG. Telehone: 01858 821085 |
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The Art of Corsetry Ed: Bunyip Bluegum |
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